Kayaköy, also known as Kaya or Livissi, is a neighborhood located in Fethiye, Turkey. As of 2022, it has a population of 975 but remains mostly abandoned. Situated approximately 8 km south of Fethiye, its origins trace back to ancient times when it was known as Karmylessos in Greek, later shortened to Lebessos, and pronounced as Leivissi in modern Greek. Throughout its history, the town underwent various name changes until its final evacuation in 1923.
Formerly, Kayaköy was inhabited primarily by Greek Orthodox Christians who coexisted with their Turkish-speaking Muslim Ottoman rulers in relative harmony. However, following the Greco-Turkish War of 1919–1922 and the subsequent Treaty of Lausanne in 1923, the Greek Orthodox residents were compelled to leave Livissi.
The turbulent events of World War I, including the massacres targeting Greek and other Christian communities in the Ottoman Empire, resulted in the depletion of Livissi’s population. By 1918, the town, which once boasted around 6,500 Greek inhabitants, was nearly deserted. Many of these displaced individuals sought refuge in Greece, while others tragically lost their lives in forced labor camps.
Following the end of World War I, Greece’s occupation of Smyrna, a city with a sizable Greek population, intensified tensions with Turkey. This escalation ultimately led to the population exchange between Greece and Turkey as outlined in the Treaty of Lausanne. As a result, Greek Orthodox refugees, including those from Livissi, were barred from returning to their homes in Turkey, while remaining Orthodox Christian citizens of Turkey were mandated to relocate to Greece.
The Treaty of Lausanne not only mandated the relocation of Greece’s Muslim citizens to Turkey, except for those residing in Greek Thrace, but also directed the resettlement of many Turkish Muslims from Greece in abandoned Greek Christian towns. However, rumors among the Turkish population about Livissi being haunted by the ghosts of the Greeks who perished there deterred many from settling in the area.
Today, what was once Livissi is known as Kayaköy, a ghost town preserved as a museum village. It features numerous weathered yet still-standing Greek-style houses and churches scattered across a small mountainside, offering a glimpse into its rich past. This eerie locale has become a popular destination for tourists exploring Fethiye and nearby Ölüdeniz.
Presently, Kayaköy remains mostly deserted, with only occasional visits from tour groups and local vendors selling handmade goods. While a few houses have undergone restoration and are now inhabited, the village serves as a poignant reminder of its tumultuous history.
Many of the surviving structures in Livissi trace their origins back to the 18th century, showcasing a mix of architectural influences. Additionally, visitors can discover Lycian-style tombs within the village and at Gokceburun, situated to the north.
Historical records reveal that Lebessus was once recognized as a Christian bishopric during the Byzantine era, although it no longer serves as a residential diocese. Despite this, the Catholic Church acknowledges Lebessus as a titular see.
Livissi likely provided shelter to individuals seeking refuge from pirate attacks, particularly those fleeing from nearby Byzantine Gemiler Island. The village experienced a period of growth following the devastation of nearby Fethiye by an earthquake in 1856 and a subsequent fire in 1885. During this time, more than 20 churches and chapels were erected in the village and surrounding plain, such as Taxiarhes and Panayia Pyrgiotissa. Although many of these structures still stand today, they often exist in a state of decay.
Livissi’s residents, along with Greeks from neighboring Makri (Fethiye), endured persecution as part of a broader campaign against Ottoman Greeks and other Christians. The mistreatment began in Makri in 1914 and escalated in Livissi in 1916. Despite appeals for help directed at foreign officials, Livissi’s inhabitants faced deportation and brutal treatment by Turkish authorities. This oppression resulted in multiple waves of exile, with families forcibly relocated to distant areas like Denizli. The outbreak of the Greco-Turkish War worsened the situation, culminating in the final expulsion of Livissi’s remaining Greeks. Some sought sanctuary in the newly established settlement of Nea Makri outside Athens.
Beyond the historical persecutions, many of Livissi’s abandoned buildings suffered damage during the 1957 Fethiye earthquake, further adding to the village’s desolate condition.
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