The solitary bell tower known as the Tower of Saint Martin, or “Il Ciucarun” to locals, stands majestically in the expansive plains of Serra Morenica near Ivrea. The name “Ciucarun” originates from the local dialect, meaning “big bell,” a fitting tribute to this enduring landmark.
Historical Background
Dating back to the 11th or 12th century, this Romanesque bell tower is the last standing vestige of the medieval village of Paerno and its once-adjacent church dedicated to Saint Martin of Tours. Little is known about Paerno’s history, but it is documented that in 1250, the residents of Paerno, along with those from neighboring settlements, were compelled to relocate to the newly established city of Bollengo. As a result, Paerno fell into abandonment, leaving only the stone church and its bell tower.
The Church and Its Fate
Despite the village’s abandonment, the church retained its significance, with villagers continuing their devotion to Saint Martin. By 1477, the church’s parish was suppressed due to its deteriorating condition, relegating the building to an oratory. Eventually, in 1731, a local bishop ordered its demolition, citing its misuse as a hideout for brigands and outlaws. Consequently, only the bell tower, now devoid of its bells, remained as a solitary witness to the once-thriving village of Paerno.
Visiting the Tower
To visit the Tower of Saint Martin, start from the town of Bollengo, located just outside Ivrea. Follow the Broglina road until you encounter a sign indicating the tower near a dirt road. From there, continue on foot for approximately 10 minutes along the trail. As you approach, the landscape opens up to reveal the tower set against the stunning backdrop of the mountains.
Conclusion
The Tower of Saint Martin stands as a poignant reminder of Paerno’s lost heritage. This enduring structure, with its rich history and serene surroundings, offers visitors a glimpse into the past and a tranquil retreat for contemplation. Whether you’re a history enthusiast or simply seeking a scenic walk, the journey to Il Ciucarun is a rewarding experience.
