Dunnottar Castle, known as Dùn Fhoithear in Scottish Gaelic, which translates to “fort on the shelving slope,” stands as a medieval stronghold in ruins perched upon a rugged headland along Scotland’s northeast coast, approximately 2 miles (3 kilometers) south of Stonehaven. While the existing structures mainly trace back to the 15th and 16th centuries, historians suggest that the site was fortified during the Early Middle Ages. Renowned for its strategic location and formidable defenses, Dunnottar Castle played a pivotal role in Scottish history, particularly during the turbulent Jacobite risings of the 18th century.
One of its most notable episodes is its role as a sanctuary for the Honours of Scotland, the Scottish crown jewels, during the 17th century invasion by Oliver Cromwell‘s army. Originally owned by the Keiths since the 14th century and serving as the stronghold of the Earl Marischal, Dunnottar saw a period of decline following the forfeiture of titles by the last Earl due to involvement in the Jacobite rebellion of 1715. In the 20th century, restoration efforts breathed new life into the castle, allowing it to be opened to the public, inviting visitors to explore its storied past.
A chapel at Dunnottar is traditionally attributed to St. Ninian, dating back to the 5th century, though the exact timing of the site’s fortification remains uncertain. However, the legend surrounding St. Ninian’s association with the site is considered to be a later addition and is regarded as improbable. The earliest written reference to the location appears in the Annals of Ulster, which documents sieges of ‘Dún Foither’ in 681 and 694. Historians believe that the first siege may have been conducted by Brude, the Pictish king of Fortriu, with the aim of extending his authority over the northeast coast of Scotland.
The Chronicle of the Kings of Alba records a significant event at Dunnottar, noting that King Donald II of Scotland, the inaugural ruler referred to as rí Alban (King of Alba), met his demise during a Viking assault on the site in 900. Furthermore, in 934, English king Æthelstan led a military expedition into Scotland, with Symeon of Durham’s account suggesting that the incursion reached as far north as Dunnottar.
During the reign of King William the Lion (1165–1214), Dunnottar Castle functioned as a local administrative center for The Mearns region. The castle even makes an appearance in the Roman de Fergus, an early 13th-century Arthurian romance, recounting Fergus’ quest to Dunnottar to retrieve a mystical shield. In May 1276, a church was consecrated at the site by William Wishart, the Bishop of St Andrews.
According to the epic poet Blind Harry, during the Wars of Scottish Independence, William Wallace captured Dunnottar from the English in 1297. Legend has it that Wallace imprisoned 4,000 defeated English soldiers in the church, where they met a gruesome fate, being burned alive.
In 1336, King Edward III of England commissioned William Sinclair, the 8th Baron of Roslin, to sail eight ships to the partially ruined Dunnottar Castle for its reconstruction and strengthening. Sinclair, along with 160 soldiers and skilled artisans such as masons and carpenters, undertook the task. King Edward himself visited the site in July to oversee the progress. However, the Scottish Regent Sir Andrew Murray led a counterforce that successfully recaptured and once again laid waste to Dunnottar’s defenses by the year’s end, undoing the English efforts.
On October 15, 1504, King James IV paid a visit to Dunnottar. During his stay, a child entertained him with music from a monochord, and the king generously distributed funds to the less fortunate. Accompanying the king were his Italian minstrels and an African drummer known as the “More taubronar.”
Throughout the 16th century, the Keith family, who held sway over Dunnottar, undertook significant enhancements and expansions of their principal residences at Dunnottar and Keith Marischal in East Lothian. King James IV’s visit in 1504 was succeeded by a royal decree from James V in 1531, exempting the Earl’s men from military service and recognizing Dunnottar as one of the “principal strengths of our realm.” Queen Mary, Queen of Scots, made visits to Dunnottar in 1562, following the Battle of Corrichie, and again in 1564.
In 1580, King James VI spent ten days at Dunnottar during his journey through Fife and Angus, even convening a Privy Council meeting at the castle. Subsequently, on April 17, 1589, King James returned to Dunnottar, lodging at Cowie to oversee the activities of the Catholic rebel earls of Huntly and Erroll.
During the 1592 rebellion of Catholic nobles, Captain Carr seized control of Dunnottar on behalf of the Earl of Huntly. However, the castle was swiftly restored to Lord Marischal a few weeks later.
Religious and political tensions remained rife at Dunnottar throughout the 17th and early 18th centuries. In 1685, amid the Earl of Argyll’s rebellion against the newly crowned King James VII, a group of 167 Covenanters found themselves apprehended and confined in a cellar at Dunnottar. This group, comprising 122 men and 45 women, were affiliated with the Whigs, a faction within the Covenanter movement known for their opposition to the monarchy. They steadfastly refused to swear allegiance to the new king.
The Whigs endured captivity from May 24 until late July. During this time, 25 managed to escape, albeit two tragically lost their lives in a fall from a cliff. Another 15 were recaptured. Within the vault, five prisoners met their demise, while 37 of the Whigs were released after taking the oath of allegiance. The remaining captives were dispatched to Perth Amboy, New Jersey, as part of a colonization initiative devised by George Scot of Pitlochie. Unfortunately, many, including Scot himself, did not survive the treacherous voyage.
The cellar, located beneath the “King’s Bedroom” in the 16th-century castle buildings, is now known as the “Whigs’ Vault,” serving as a poignant reminder of this tumultuous chapter in Dunnottar’s history.
