The Petite Ceinture Railway, an iconic yet forgotten loop around Paris, served urban travelers from 1862 to 1934 before its abandonment. This “little belt” railroad predated the Paris Métro, linking major train stations and providing crucial fortification for the city. Constructed in 1852 under the direction of Napoléon III and Baron Haussmann, the railway eventually became obsolete due to the city’s expansion and the success of the Métro.
Today
Today, stretches of the Petite Ceinture are a haven for over 200 species of flora and fauna. In spring, the overgrown tracks are adorned with colorful flowers, creating a striking contrast against the vibrant graffiti and street art. Bridges, tunnels, and original tracks remain largely untouched, lying just beyond the lively streets of the outer arrondissements.
In 1988, a section in the 16th arrondissement was integrated into the RER regional network. By 2008, a portion between the Porte d’Auteuil and the Gare de la Muette opened to pedestrians as a nature trail. Additional sections are now accessible in the 16th, 15th, and 12th arrondissements. While some parts remain closed, the railway’s presence in nine arrondissements has made it a magnet for urban explorers. Notably, one of the tunnels on the Petite Ceinture offers the easiest entry point to the Paris catacombs.
Exploring
Exploring the Petite Ceinture reveals remnants of old train stations. A suggested route is entering via Villa du Bel Air and exiting at the old Gare de Charonne before the tunnel. Although most tracks are owned and managed by the SNCF and remain operational, particularly the segments connecting the Gare de Bercy with the Gare de Nord and Gare de l’Est, they hold a unique charm.
City officials and SNCF have launched a program to open parts of the Petite Ceinture to local communities. This initiative has already converted several sections into walkways and parks while preserving the sites’ biodiversity and historical significance. Currently, a few dozen kilometers are pedestrian-friendly, though it’s recommended to walk with company as some areas may be unsafe.
Know Before You Go:
- Entry points are located around the 12th, 13th, 14th, 15th, 16th, 17th, 18th, 19th, and 20th arrondissements.
- Villa du Bel Air near Porte de Vincennes offers easy access.
- Tunnels can be long, dark, and rat-infested. Carry a powerful flashlight as phone lights are inadequate.
- Opening times at official entry points vary with the sections and season, generally from 8 a.m. to 9 a.m., and closing between 7:30 p.m. and 8:30 p.m.
Exploring the Petite Ceinture provides a unique blend of Paris’s rich history and natural beauty, offering a hidden adventure just beyond the city streets.