The Rock of Cashel, nestled close to Cashel town, just about 20 km up from Cahir in County Tipperary, Ireland, is a powerful symbol of Irish history. Rising 65 meters above the ground, this rocky hill has a deep connection to Irish heritage and is seen as a major landmark. Back in the day, folks held it in high esteem, believing it was a sacred spot tied to fairies and spirits.
In the 4th century, the Eoghanachta clan, who later became known as the MacCarthys, took over the Rock of Cashel and turned it into their family stronghold. They saw the rock’s high perch as a tactical advantage, providing a sweeping view of the land around them.
From the 4th century onward, Caiseal (which means “stone castle” in Old Irish) became the headquarters of the kings of Munster, holding similar importance to other regional power centers like Tara. Saint Patrick designated the fortress as a bishop’s seat in the 5th century.
During the early 10th century, Cormac mac Cuileannáin, a respected bishop and scholar, ruled over Munster from Cashel. He met his end in 908 during the Battle of Ballaghmoon, a clash between Leinster and Munster. Later, Mahon of the Dál gCais clan took over as the ruler of Munster and made Cashel his home. After Mahon’s death, the King of Eoghanacht took control of the rock but was eventually defeated by Mahon’s brother, Brian Boru. Brian was crowned King of Munster at Cashel in 977 and later declared himself High King around 1005. He died fighting the Vikings in 1014. Brian’s descendants, the O’Brien clan, continued to hold sway in Cashel thereafter.
In 1101, King Muircheartach Ó Briain handed over the Rock of Cashel to the Bishop of Limerick during the first synod in Ireland. Following this important event, Cormac Mac Carthaigh became the first Archbishop of Cashel in 1127. In the same year, he oversaw the building of Cormac’s Chapel, styled in the Irish Romanesque fashion. This chapel, along with the round tower, is among the oldest structures on the Rock of Cashel. Interestingly, two skilled builders from a monk group linked to Regensburg, a city with close cultural ties to Cashel, also contributed to the chapel’s construction.
In 1172, after Henry II of England took control of part of Ireland, he visited the castle, where princes and clergy paid homage to him. This event marked a turning point for the Irish Catholic Church, as it acknowledged Henry II’s authority, granting it a degree of independence. The construction of the impressive Gothic cathedral began in the 13th century. However, in 1494, the 8th Earl of Kildare allegedly set fire to the cathedral, supposedly trying to assassinate the archbishop he believed was inside.
During the 15th century, the bishop’s castle was built on the cathedral’s west side, becoming part of the church complex. The Hall of the Vicars Chorale, housed within this castle, now serves as the entrance to the entire site.
After Archbishop Roland Baron passed away in 1561, there were disputes over bishop appointments between the Pope and the English Crown. Eventually, Anglican bishops gained control. From 1571 to 1622, Miler Magrath, often referred to as the “Scoundrel of Cashel,” held the title. His tomb, featuring an inscription he wrote himself, is located in the choir of the cathedral.
In 1641, during the Irish Confederation Wars, the Rock of Cashel came under Catholic control once again. However, in 1647, it was taken back by the Anglican Church after a siege led by Murrough O’Brien, the Earl of Inchiquin and English commander of Cork. During this siege, Confederate troops and Roman Catholic clergy, including Theobald Stapleton, were executed, and many precious religious artworks cherished by Catholics were either stolen or destroyed by English forces.
The Anglican Church eventually gave up control of the site in the 18th century. In 1749, Arthur Price, an Anglican bishop of Cashel, ordered the removal of the cathedral’s roof, leading to the decay of the entire complex.
Legend has it that Saint Patrick established the site as a center for bishops and baptized King Angus there in 450 AD. According to the story, during the baptism, Patrick accidentally bumped Angus’s foot with his crosier, which Angus mistook as part of the Christian ceremony and endured without complaint. In the early medieval period, an Englishman named Albert was chosen as archbishop in Cashel by the local people.
The oldest and tallest structure in Cashel is the incredibly well-preserved round tower, soaring to 28 meters (90 feet) in height. It’s believed to have been built around 1101, though some accounts suggest it might date back even further to 849. Its entrance sits 3.60 meters (12 feet) above the ground. Sporting the classic pointed roof typical of round towers, it was originally constructed without mortar, but for safety reasons, the joints have been filled with mortar in recent times.
Cormac’s Chapel, commissioned by King Cormac Mac Carthaig of Munster, began construction in 1127 and was consecrated in 1134. This chapel features a central nave and a chancel, although they’re not perfectly aligned. Flanking the chancel are two towers, showing influences from Germanic architecture, which is unusual for Irish Romanesque style. Standout features include the portico, a barrel vault, intricately carved tympanums over both doors, and an impressive north gate. The chapel also houses one of the finest-preserved Irish frescoes from its time, and extensive restoration work was finished in 2017.
Built between 1235 and 1270, the cathedral is a Gothic cruciform church without aisles. Rising above the crossing is a tower from the 15th century, while a sizable residential tower was added to the west. Visitors can climb to the battlements via a spiral staircase for a stunning panoramic view. Right next to the church entrance lies the ancient stone upon which the kings of Munster were traditionally crowned.
The Hall of the Vicars Choral, constructed in the 15th century under Archbishop O’Hedian, served as the living quarters for laymen appointed as Vicars Choral. These individuals, also known as minor canons, were responsible for leading the singing during cathedral services. Originally, there were eight Vicars Choral in Cashel, each with their own seal. Eventually, this number was reduced to five volunteers, who were supported by deputy singers, a tradition that lasted until 1836.
The structure consists of a hall and a dormitory, with the dormitory being added later. The main living spaces for the vicars were on the upper floor. In 1975, the Office of Public Works undertook a restoration project aimed at preserving European architectural heritage, which included renovating the hall. Today, the rooms serve as a museum showcasing the rock’s history. In the basement, visitors can find the weathered St. Patrick’s Cross from the 12th century, adorned with depictions of Christ and a bishop, although it lacks the customary ring at the intersection.
The neighboring town of Cashel, established during the cathedral’s construction, has its own attractions, such as the ruins of the 13th-century Hore Abbey located at the foot of the rock. This abbey acted as a training ground for clergy destined for Regensburg, as seen in the Scottish-style portal at the Church of St. Jakob in Regensburg. Additionally, the former Dominican settlement, Dominic’s Abbey Cashel, is situated nearby.
The castle has gained recognition as a filming spot for the medieval children’s series Mystic Knights, where it depicted the ominous castle Temra, the stronghold of the antagonist Maeve. Although the castle’s appearance was digitally enhanced for the series, only glimpses of the border walls and parts of the main building are visible in photographs.
