Hidden amidst the farmlands and industrial complexes on the outskirts of Palestrina, built above the ancient Latin city of Praeneste, lies a baroque architectural gem: the hunting lodge of the Barberini family. Constructed in the latter half of the 17th century by the virtuoso architect Giovan Battisti Contini, possibly inspired by Borromini, this unique structure stands as a testament to the era’s eccentric architectural experiments.
The Triangolo Barberini
The central feature of the complex, known as the “Triangolo Barberini,” showcases an intricate geometric design. This structure consists of two equilateral triangles topped by a hexagon, which is crowned by a roof terrace. The true enigma of the Triangolo lies in its illusionary nature. Walking around it, one might feel as if the building is rotating on its axis. Each façade presents a different perspective: a rural mansion, a fortress, and the prow of a ship poised to set sail.
Originally serving multiple purposes, the Barberini complex was a country estate and hunting lodge surrounded by farmlands and orchards arranged in geometric patterns. It also included a small family chapel dedicated to San Filippo Neri. The old farmhouse complex behind the Triangolo still functions as a temporary storage site for agricultural machinery. Flanking the farmhouse, four monumental plane trees stand as the only living remnants of the Barberini era.
Current State
Today, the complex lies in ruins, a shadow of its former glory. Yet, its fascinating interiors continue to captivate explorers. The frescoed walls with trompe-l’oeil views, decorated pavements, the Barberini family symbols (bees), and headless statues on the roof terrace are relics of its decorative past. These elements serve as a poignant reminder of the building’s rich history and artistic significance.
Know Before You Go
To visit, access the building through the original gate on Via degli Olmi, situated between Labico and Palestrina. Exercise caution when exploring the upper floors, as the structures are in a state of decay. Despite its current condition, the Barberini hunting lodge offers a unique glimpse into the eccentric architectural styles and historical opulence of its time.
