Deep beneath the Basilica di San Francesco lies a crypt that dates back to the 10th century. Over time, the nearby marshes have caused water to seep in, transforming it into a tranquil home for goldfish. This basilica is renowned for its stunning architecture and is even recognized by UNESCO for its cultural importance. In this hidden crypt, Bishop Neon rests beneath the mosaic-tiled floor, submerged in about a foot of water. Despite efforts to keep the water out, conservationists have accepted the situation, allowing the goldfish to thrive in this unique environment. Nowadays, the coins tossed in by hopeful visitors glint in the gentle light, reminiscent of hidden treasures within the historical walls of the Crypt of San Francesco.
This enchanting crypt stands as a testament to the architectural ingenuity of its time, featuring charming vaulted ceilings that elegantly slope towards rows of stone pillars. The floor is adorned with elaborate mosaic patterns, showcasing the skillful craftsmanship of its 10th-century builders. Surprisingly well-maintained since its establishment alongside the church, the crypt has retained its structural integrity over the centuries. While some mosaic tiles have faded away with time, a considerable portion has been successfully preserved, thanks to restoration efforts carried out in 1977. According to historical records, the site is believed to be the final resting place of the intriguingly named Bishop Neon, who left a notable mark on Ravenna during the 5th century.
Unfortunately, Ravenna grapples with its location on soft marshland, which poses structural challenges for many of its buildings and fosters a perception that the entire city is slowly sinking. The crypt isn’t immune to this problem and now finds itself consistently submerged in about a foot of standing water. Despite attempts to stave off the advancing floods proving ineffective, the pool has transformed into a haven for goldfish (and occasionally ducks), gracefully navigating among the columns and over the submerged mosaics.
Visitors have adopted the tradition of tossing coins into the water, presumably in hopes of making wishes or seeking good fortune. Yet, given that this space serves as a burial site, it remains uncertain who, if anyone, might be responding to those requests.
If you’re thinking of visiting, keep in mind that you’ll need 1 euro to light up the crypt and admire its beauty. You can find the machine for this at the entrance of the crypt.
