Smallpox, a disease that has shaped human history like few others, left an indelible mark on civilization. While the bubonic plague is notorious for its gruesome symptoms and malaria and HIV are prevalent in our times, smallpox stands out for its long and widespread influence. For over 3,000 years, it ravaged populations across the world.

Before the advent of the vaccine in 1796, smallpox was a relentless killer. In Europe alone, it claimed over 400,000 lives each year. According to the World Health Organization, the disease killed one in ten children in Sweden and France, and one in seven in Russia. It struck down commoners and royalty alike, including Louis XV of France. Queen Elizabeth I, who survived the disease as a child, was left with pockmarks that she concealed with heavy makeup.

Smallpox also has a dark history as a weapon of war. During the French and Indian Wars, smallpox-infected blankets were intentionally given to Delaware Amerindians, marking an early example of biological warfare. Thanks to global vaccination efforts, smallpox was eradicated in 1979, the only disease to be completely eliminated by human action.

By the end of the 19th century, Western Europe and the United States had embarked on universal vaccination campaigns to eradicate smallpox. Before these efforts, many cities built dedicated hospitals to treat smallpox patients. In New York City, the smallpox hospital on Blackwell’s Island (now Roosevelt Island) was one such facility. Designed by James Renwick Jr. in the Gothic Revival style, the hospital operated from 1856 to 1875, treating around 7,000 patients each year. The building was later converted into a nurses’ dormitory, and the smallpox hospital was moved to North Brother Island as Blackwell’s Island became more populated.

By the 1950s, the Renwick-designed hospital had fallen into disrepair and was abandoned. In 1975, the Landmarks Preservation Commission recognized the building’s historical significance and declared it a city landmark. Although the walls were reinforced to prevent further decay, the structure was not restored or opened for tours. Today, only portions of the outer walls and the foundation remain, fenced off at the southern tip of Roosevelt Island.

Know Before You Go: To visit the site, take the F train to Roosevelt Island and walk south along West Road to E Road. The hospital ruins will be on your right. Alternatively, you can take the tram from Manhattan or the ferry from Astoria, Long Island City, or Wall Street.

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