The lonely silhouette of the Tower of Chia (Torre di Chia) rises majestically above the scenic woods and waterfalls of Fosso Castello in the province of Viterbo, a region steeped in the history of the ancient Etruscans. This 13th-century tower holds a unique place in modern cultural history as the retreat of the acclaimed Italian director, poet, and writer Pier Paolo Pasolini, who spent his final years here and filmed key scenes of his most famous film, “The Gospel According to Matthew.”
Pasolini’s Discovery and Legacy
In the spring of 1964, while scouting for filming locations for what would become his cinematic masterpiece, Pasolini discovered the tiny village of Chia and its melancholic tower near Fosso Castello. The idyllic landscape struck him as the perfect setting for the scenes of Jesus’ baptism in the River Jordan. Pasolini was captivated by the area’s beauty, declaring it the most beautiful landscape in the world.
Years later, Pasolini’s admiration for Chia led him to purchase and restore the tower, where he built a small house at its foot. This secluded sanctuary became his retreat and a source of inspiration, where he worked on his final novel, Petrolio. Tragically, Pasolini never completed the manuscript; he was found dead on the night between November 1st and 2nd, 1975, on a beach in Ostia.
Historical Significance
Originally built in the 13th century as a lookout tower, the Tower of Chia was part of a fortress situated on a high and inaccessible tuff spur, atop ancient Etruscan structures. Before Pasolini’s acquisition, the tower had passed through the hands of several powerful families, including the Orsini, Colonna, and Lante della Rovere. The old village of Chia, now mostly abandoned, offers a glimpse into a past when the area was densely inhabited and productive. Below the tower, visitors can find the ruins of old watermills and houses, remnants of the region’s industrious history.
Exploring the Tower and Its Surroundings
The Tower of Chia can be reached on foot, just off the Ortana provincial road. While the interior is rarely open to the public, except on special occasions, the surrounding area offers much to explore. A trail leads around the site down to the waterfalls and old watermills of Fosso Castello and continues on to the pyramid in Bomarzo, offering a journey through both natural beauty and historical intrigue.
Conclusion
The Tower of Chia stands as a testament to the historical depth and artistic significance of the Viterbo region. It is not only a relic of medieval architecture but also a symbol of Pasolini’s enduring legacy. Visitors to this secluded landmark can immerse themselves in the serene landscape that once inspired one of Italy’s greatest cultural figures.
Know Before You Go
The Tower of Chia is accessible via a footpath off the Ortana provincial road. The tower’s interior is seldom open, typically only on special occasions. For those planning to explore further, a trail leads down to the waterfalls and old watermills of Fosso Castello and continues to the pyramid in Bomarzo.